A Fancy Breadbox

– The Wood Whisperer is
sponsored by Powermatic, Titebond, and special
sponsor, Brusso Hardware, they make hinges. So today we’re going to build a breadbox. Nicole has been asking me for a breadbox for a very long time and I finally had a chance to build one. And, of course, I had
to complicate things. But I really like it, it came out nice. So I have very figured walnut here and you can see on the sides we’ve got some through mortise and tenon joints that look pretty cool. On the front I went for an
accent material with butternut. It’s a close relative to walnut and I think it’s a really
good complement to it. And also allows me to set off this copper punch panel on the front. So we have two compartments, this guy lifts up, plenty of room in there with some ventilation in the back. And then the bottom compartment we’ve got room for more bread or cookies or whatever you wanna put in there. So this project is actually a
Wood Whisperer Guild project. You can get that at the
woodwhispererguild.com if you want the plans
and the full video set, but I thought it would be fun to show you exactly how everything went together. Let’s get to it. The parts are all milled
up and cut to size. Thankfully I have material
that’s wide enough that I don’t actually need to do any panel glue-ups for this one. To make the through mortises in the sides I’ll make a template out of MDF. It’s really just a grid work
where the holes are created by using strips of a
specific length and width, then gluing the whole
thing together with spacers between the strips to
establish the mortise lengths. The jig is placed on top of the sides and the mortises are cut using a sharp bit and a guide bushing. The ends of the mortises
can then be squared up with the chisel. Now we’ll cut the tenons in the shelves. I’ll start by making one
long tenon across the width. Once that fits I can notch out
the areas between the tenons. I pretty much just sneak up on the fit until the tenons go in without
splitting the board apart. I’ll admit this is a bit tricky, but it’s also tricky to rock a rhyme, but that never stopped Run-D.M.C.. Once all the tenons are cut we’ll do a quick dry assembly. Because I like to complicate things I’m going to add a curved
profile to the proud tenons. I’ll then sculpt them just
a little bit using a chisel. The back of each piece gets
a rabbet for the back panel. The back panel itself is then cut to size and fit to the case. I want the box to have
some decent airflow, so I’m routing a nice little pattern. The top of the box gets a
bevel where the door attaches. I could then use a
mockup of my door profile to transfer the curve to the sides. Now for the doors. The top door gets a bevel
to account for its angle. We have some shaping to do, but that’ll come later. For now we’ll work on
the copper punch panel. To cut it to size I first score it well and then stress the joint
until it breaks away. The ends are then filed clean. The design I’m going with is wheat, because bread. It’s also a pretty simple design and since I’ve never done
anything like this before simple is good. I’m just using a nail with the tip blunted to the size and shape that I need. I gotta tell you, this was pretty tedious and at this point I’m wondering who’s big idea this was anyway. With a little bit of Sharpie in the dents the design really pops. Now I’ll scribe around the copper in order to do the inlay. I can then route the recess. It’s a really snug fit, so I don’t wanna put the panel until there until we’re actually ready to glue it up. Now we can install the hinges. I’m using hinges from Brusso Hardware. Brusso makes the highest quality American-made hardware available. This is a pretty small hinge, but at how beefy those leafs are. I use the hinge itself to
scribe the shape onto the box with some CA glue holding the
hinge temporarily in place. I can then use a router
to make the mortise and a chisel to square it up. Now I can pre-drill for screws. Because the brass screws
are really fragile Brusso includes a steel
screw with their hinges that allows you to first cut the threads, which really helps decrease the chances of stripping the brass screws. Once the case is mortised I can transfer the hinge
locations to the door. Because of the bevel I
need to drive these screws at a slight angle, otherwise they might
poke through the front. The bottom door is a little easier, but the hinge mortising process
is pretty much the same. When you put this much
effort into your work you should use hardware
that matches that quality. Brusso has been my go-to for years and I think you’re really
gonna enjoy their stuff, so be sure to check them out. To shape the door I’ll trace
the curve onto the ends and then use my jack
plane to remove the stock. The curve is subtle and this butternut is very easy to plane, so it doesn’t take too long. The bottom door needs
a catch of some sort, so I’ll make one up using
a little piece of walnut and two 1/4 inch magnets. And finally the pulls. Purely for the sake of overkill the doors are first mortised. The pulls themselves will
get a cove on each face, along with a little tenon. The shape of the pull is curved, like the proud tenons, and I sculpt it until I’m
happy with the appearance. The whole piece will be
finished before assembly, so everything gets thoroughly sanded. The finish will be a hard wax oil. Two coats are wiped on and aggressively wiped off. Now I can glue in the
handles and the copper panel. I’m using Titebond hide
glue on the tenons. This gives me a lot of extra working time and if there’s any squeeze out it should be pretty easy to clean up, especially on these pre-finished parts. When the piece is already finished it’s a good idea to use cloths
to help prevent the deadblow or clamps from leaving marks. And here comes the back panel. Now for the final installation
of the Brusso hinges. (gentle music) There it is, a breadbox fit for a queen, queen Nicole to be exact. All that’s missing is some bread. Remember, head to the
woodwhispererguild.com if you want the full set of plans and videos for this project. Toodles.

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