antique shadow embroidered dress sewing construction

Hey everyone, here is how I put together this
circle skirt bodice dress. And this dress has a series of accompany videos that show
all the aspects of its construction and embellishments, and you can find them linked down below along
with time stamps and all the materials used. The bodice uses cc louis, but any bodice pattern
would work fine here. There is a separate video along with a downloadable embroidery
file for this motif, and once I was done with the embroidering, I cut out my front bodice
piece along with two back bodice pieces. The front bodice piece was cut out on the fold
while the back pieces were cut all the way around. I’ll be adding a lining using a
different type of fabric, so that’s why I can’t use my usual bodice ring construction.
So I joined the bodice pieces together at the shoulder and side seams. Then I trimmed
down this silk charmeuse pipping and sewed that around the back neckline areas, around
the armholes, and the front neckline. And then I cut a piece of that piping and
put it along the bottom of the bodice, so it’ll go around the waist line.
Then I get my circle skirt. So cutting out this skirt is explained in another video and
the embroidery work and template placement are described in two other videos.
Before I can join the bodice to the circle skirt, I need to place a placket into the
circle skirt. I love this circle skirt since there are NO seams… ahhh how cool! We just
need to put a placket in the back, and I used the continuous placket method to do this and
yupp, I have another video on how to do that. Sorry for all the extra videos, but it lets
me devote more energy to an explanation once so I’m not constantly spending unnecessary
time re-explaining the same concepts and I can do a better job with that one explanation.
Anywho, then I pin the skirt to the bodice and the back of the bodice is going to overhang
the skirt placket by about ½”, or whatever seam allowance you have. This seam allowance
is going to go towards joining the dress with its lining later on.
So I join the two together and then I come back and did a second row of stitches about
an 1/8” of an inch away from the first row. Because this fabric is so fine, I’m just
going to run these two rows of stitches and then trim close to that second row. I’m
not going to zigzag or anything over top of it. then give everything a really good ironing.
So then I give everything a really good pressing and I repeat the same construction for the
lining. Now let’s talk about this lining, because I wanted the pretty, right side of
the silk charmeuse to show underneath of the voile dress… kinda shimmering out. So then
I thought where I should construct it backwards so the seams were touching each other like
they would normally… but I decided to have the seams for the lining towards the wearer
of the dress instead so they wouldn’t show from underneath this fine voile… to each
their own, but that was my thought process 
So then I joined the lining to the dress by starting at a center back, which is where
that little overhang of seam allowance from before is becoming useful, and then I go around
those neckline areas and armhole areas. I made sure to stay away from the ends of the
shoulder straps. I will be joining the shoulder straps using a method I saw explained by Sew
Over It – brilliant method, seriously, and I’ll link her video down below.
So from there, I just need to finish the hem. And I did both hems using this rolled fabric
method that I described in another video, again, linked down below.
And last but not least, I did this final stem so I could line it up with the stem from the
bodice. I hope this video was helpful. If you have
any questions, please leave them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them.
As always, I appreciate y’all for watching and I hope to catch ya next time.

16 Replies to “antique shadow embroidered dress sewing construction”

  1. What a beautiful dress that is so Spring time! I will have to watch all of the separate videos to see your process. But Audrey is so cute in it. Peace and blessings.

  2. This dress is gorgeous! Thank you so much for all of your videos and tutorials. I was cutting a pattern today and thought that the company over complicated it. Thanks to you and your videos, I have the confidence to take the pieces I need and do the rest on my own.

  3. Wait!!!! Henry had his first birthday!!!! I remember because my 1st grandbaby was born a few days later. She turns 1 tomorrow.

    Happy Birthday, Henry!!!!

  4. Omgosh! I can't believe all the embroidery work you did! Oh Audrey is going to cry when she is older and understands you did all of that by hand. You are amazing Sarah and you truly inspire to keep this art Alive. Thank you ??

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