Building a 15′ Metal Property Gate

now that my shop is done I’m gonna be tackling two huge projects on my to do list building two property gates The property has two gates one that leads to the house and one that leads to the shop so in this video I’m gonna be covering the process on how I built this gate leading to the house let’s jump into it this gate will be 15 feet long and 6 feet tall and made entirely from steel which meant I got a pretty good workout in while building it anything set up or built on the metal side of my shop I built the entire thing on my shop floor I suppose even if I had a workbench I would have still needed to build it on the floor because of its size I started by cutting the square tubing joints that will make up the bottom and the two sides of the mainframe I built up a standoff from wood scraps for the outfeed support on the material and make sure that every joint read level before making my cuts out the chop saw I’ve never built too gay before so before jumping in I did ask a few welder friends of mine on material thickness that I should be going with as well as if a diagonal should be incorporated into the design and the information I got back was no diagonal as it wouldn’t help with sagging since the gate will be longer than it is tall and to go with thicker material for the bottom join and the hinge side of the frame so that’s what I did the heavier stuff is quarter-inch thickness then for the top and unhinge side of the frame I went with 3/16 something that will help with sagging no is the top arch incorporated into the design not only is this decorative but it’s also functional I first bought two by two streets who being thinking I would just take it to a fab shop to bend it for me but not it was very expensive going that route and it turns out that a local steel shop called triple s sells different arches right off the shelf before cutting the arches to length I decided to weld up the bottom and the two sides first to get them in a fixed state before trying to measure for the arch I took my time to not only get the sides completely squared to the bottom but to also make sure that the material was nice and flat to each other I placed a few tack welds and different spots on both sides measured everything again to make sure that it was still square and flat and then came back to well the three sides closed without stuck in place now I felt comfortable cutting the arch the main thing to consider here is I wanted the center of the arch to be Center with the gate I first found Center on the bottom which was very easy to do is it just hard to pull the tape across to get Center on my arch though I pulled a tape from end to end then used a framing square to find Center on the tape then transferred that line to the arch then I could use my framing square on the bottom to help line up a straight scrap board to my bottom mark once that was in place I can move to the top and also align the board to the line up on the arch now I can go to the edges of my gate and mark the arch where it lined up to the sides of the gate and I marked the underside of the tubing so that I could avoid doing math and figuring out the angle here the second arch is the exact same length as the first so once I had the first one cut I could lay it on top of the second one and use it to trace my cut lines these were pretty quick to install as I just had to make sure things were nice and flat as I was talking and installing them and of course that they were spaced apart the same distance on the left and right side since I planned for this side to be the front of my gate after I completed the weld or the arches I came back with a grinder and ground down my welds until they were nice and smooth using this awesome new hood from Lincoln Electric that is an autodarkening welding hood but it can be flipped up to quickly become a clear protective grinding chilled this prevents from having to switch out headgear when needing to go between the two tops repeatedly during a project it is very cool in my opinion so the body of the frame is done at this point where the center will be filling in the space evenly with 3/4 inch tubing I first divided the space out evenly to figure out what the spacing between each picket needed to be so that I could cut a bunch of spacers made from wood then I would draw a tape across a span to see how tall the next picket needed to be cut to the bottom is cut it had a 90 degree of course but the top has that arch too but up to this means the cut angle varies so when I pulled my tape I would read the left and the right then mark two dimensions on my material at the chop saw so that I could connect the two with a straight edge and have a visual of the cut was needed and a lot of pickets were needed for the gate which meant that this was a very time-consuming process to speed things up I set up to cutting stations so that I could keep my chop saw at a true 90 and get the bottom cut then I used my porta ban to get those angled top cuts sticking the picket and my super jaws to cut it and also to grind down the ends if just a little bit needed to be taken off once I got to the halfway point things really picked up speed because I was then able to take the picket so I already cut it and use them to make a twin for the mirrored side this killed the measuring step and then I just had to pay attention to keep all the pickets in the right order after all of the pickets were cut out I started attaching them by first going through and tacking them in place by one of these pickets to be Center on the bottom rail so I grabbed a spacer that was the thickness needed and moved it to sit right underneath the picket the important thing in this step was to make sure that the picket was not only setting flat against the bottom spacer but also pushed up against the spacer dictating that distance between it and the next picket and to make sure that all my pickets were on the same line I used the same single spacer for the bottom and kept moving it from picket to picket but would tack a few along the bottom then repeat the process along the top taking that same spacer with me to place underneath them once I got to the end of the gate and verified that everything looked nice and straight and evenly spaced I went back through the pickets and welded them close actually I only welded the front side with the gate laying down after getting those done I stood the gate up using my super jaws to keep it from falling over then welded the sides as well as the back and it was absolutely awesome getting to see this gate stood up and being able to move around it for some reason whenever he was laying on the ground maybe because the shop is quite large but the gauges didn’t seem 15 by 6 stood up though it did start to sink in just how big the gate was with the gate upright I was now able to weld what will be the backside of the gates frame this was a side that was laying against the shop floor when it was down on the ground and I also capped off the end of the open square tubing I did this by clamping down on some flat bar and cutting off a portion just big enough to fit inside the juvie I used a magnet to hold it in place then tacked and welded it closed I’m using the new Lincoln 260 power mode for this project one of the things I’m absolutely loving is how quick it is to change between thickness settings a few clicks and turns of a button and I can go from 3/16 down to 16 gauge all my other settings stay the same and back into welding and that’s my friends is they finish gates it’s funny because even though this is one of the largest things I built it only took three days to get this far so if you have a gate on your to-do list then don’t think it’s out of the question to build one yourself alrighty next up was paint I called Brian and Cody for help on this one as I wanted to move the gate outside to the porch to first clean off as this gate weighs about 350 pounds they grabbed the tractor a few straps and made very quick work of getting it moved to protect my porch from the paint that’ll eventually do I set the gate on some OSB and also some scrap wood blocks though espía to protect the porch and the blocks to keep it up off the ground so I can get that bottom rail whenever I paint before painting now I gave the entire thing a good scrubbing as this material is very dirty I filled a bucket with soap and water then used a stiff bristle brush to over the entire gate and get all of them they’ll go off this was not a very fun step but had to be done after was clean I let it dry then started painting for the gate I went with a textured black spray paint by rust-oleum this is a protective and a mold pane that is fast drying rest preventative and a suitable for either indoor or outdoor applications one thing you can not see in the video but I cannot say enough about is the texture of this paint and how much I like it it’s like slightly gritty and bumpy and it gives such a cool feel to it when I actually put my hands on the gate I started by painting the fast and easy part of the gate which is the frame then I moved over to the pickets the technique I found to work the best as far as moving quickly and making it look nice is to start at the bottom and then stand up while holding down the trigger once you get into a groove it becomes easy to keep your spraying line straight and in line with the picket as you go from bottom to top I went through and I did all of the fronts first then I repeated tackling the sides as well as the back my original plan for the gate was not to stop here but to cut out an emblem of some sort and put it at the center of the gate and in fact I actually cut out a really pretty looking tree to do this I first found a tree image that I liked on the internet took the image to an office depot and had them print it off to the size I wanted for the gate I placed packing tape over the entire front of the image just to give the paper a little bit of rigidity as I wanted to turn this image into a stencil I cut it out with an exacto knife then laid that on top of some 16 gauge flat steel that I had as you can see I just traced it out and then whenever I removed the stencil I now have a tree that I could cut out using my padma cutter a tree is a very forgiving image as you can almost make no wrong cuts with it however once I cut out the tree I felt like it needed some sort of distinguishing background so that the metal tree wouldn’t get lost in the metal picket so I moved right into making some sort of wooden background for it and here’s where things started going a little bit sideways I really wanted the background to be round however with the tree being so much wider than it is tall I don’t think a round background would have looked nice so I changed it to be a rectangle that fit the tree but then arched the top and also the bottom to kind of match the shape of the gate a little bit however after getting both of them made I just decided that I didn’t like it and I did not want to put it on the gate so I ended up leaving it off and leaving the gate as is however I do plan to come back in the future and add something right now I’m thinking a compass rose because that’ll be nice and it will be round but we’ll see this was such a huge project not only the gate in itself but also the install so in the next video I’m gonna be covering the process on building the gate that leads to my shop which is a completely different design then I went ahead and did the installing of both of the gates as a completely separate video so that I can cover all the details for you guys stay tuned if you’re interested in seeing more and of course I would love to hear your comments on what you think about my gate I’ll see you next time

100 Replies to “Building a 15′ Metal Property Gate”

  1. Wow, looks like not many people caught that diagonal bracing error. April, I hope you just misunderstood your metal experts, because diagonal bracing ALWAYS helps resist deflection. Take a look at roof trusses, or the space frames holding up highway signs — they're much longer than they are tall, and you'll never see one without diagonal bracing.

  2. you did an excellent job, i like the video. your work is really good. you have a lot of skills. nice to see a girl doing this kind of stuff. the way you describe what you are doing is also very good and easy to listen too. you don't waste a lot of time talking about things that do not matter like a lot of others do. i see people saying why didn't you do this or that , instead of the way you did it. there are a hundred different ways of doing anything. they should make a video and see what people say about their work, GOOD JOB

  3. Invest in a bandsaw the best 700-1500 you will ever spend. use the scrap to build a welding table. And grab a few boat screw jacks. makes welding and adjusting for level much better.. and a magnet ground clamp. Thats a great gate. both the shop gate and house gate.

  4. Having grown up on a small farm near Quinlan, TX I always like to see other Texans being successful.
    Good for you.
    I personally like the AW logo for the gate, but the tree is cool too.
    While the naysayers are correct in that triangles are more rigid than rectangles there comes a point when there's enough strength that it doesn't matter, I have welded a few things together on the farm and there's nothing wrong with the design and construction of your gate.
    Unless someone runs over it or steals it, which are both possibilities, it ain't going no where.
    Speaking of the possibility of theft, how are you going to lock the hinges in so some jack wagon can't come in and steal it ?
    Keep up the good work.

  5. Nice job on the fab. I would have done a different design. Cut the weight of the gate in half with the same opening by doing a double leaf design. You are using a very heavy gate on a single hinge post. I predict you will have sagging issues over time.

  6. Dammm girl I want to be like you ๐Ÿ™‚ my dad works like you . And I have always liked construction ๐Ÿ”จ but you make me love it seriously your my inspiration . Iโ€™m a nurse but i would totally change my profesiรณn for this live it so much thanks you for showing that women can do this too:)

  7. You're totally amazing. I am so impressed with what you have done. I'm so glad I subscribed to your Channel.

  8. oh god your make my back really hurt watching you, you need to build what i did many years ago, for building everything from trailers, gates, truck racks docks, pontoon boats, pontoon house boats and so much more, build a frame out of 2x4x1/8 tubing, put 2x3x1/8 cross-member across the under side, a 2x4x1/8 removable tong, using 2 pins. weld o 3 inch peace of hitch tubing seamless so 2" tubing fits in side, drill a 7/8 hole in the side of the 3" long peaces of tubing weld a stainless steel nut over the drilled holes put a 4/4" stainless steel bolt into the nut, weld these 3 peace that are 3" long seamless tubing to all 4 comers of the frame, cut 4 peaces of 2x2x1/8 tubing for the legs lock them in place with the ss bolt, get 2 spindles (4 bolt on) and wheels from a scrap yard frpm a small car, smaller the in the center of your fram weld on a drop tubing one on each side bolt spindles an wheels on, cut a 3rd 2x4x1/8 tubing to run the full length of the inside of your huge frame, this is used as you width jig beam, make sure when you weld this frame up it is 100% square, now roll in out side for storage after pain, drop the 4 legs an lock them, now you have a huge mobile jig table, make it long, make it wide, i made mine to fit a 102 wide trailer frame being that is max hwy width, i roll it in when needed roll out when not

  9. Great job! I am curious about the tree, it was too little the proportion? Cause it was a nice shape and i would like to see a picture of a try on the gate.

  10. I being a welder for a long time (30 Years) I think you went too heavy with it! Light wall tubing is adequate for such a project. Nice job what was the cost? The structure of the gate would of supported itself with no bending. Personally I would of made two separate gates hinging in the center as it would be less strain on the attaching posts where you have the entire weight hanging to one side.

  11. ๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

  12. Great looking gate. On a side note, you can't wash mill scale off with soap and water. You either need to sand blast, grind, or used acid to remove it. However, you did get them clean.

  13. ้’ขๆ็š„ๅฃๅŽšๅคชๅŽšไบ†,ๅฏผ่‡ดๆ•ดๆ‰‡้—จ็š„้‡้‡่ฟ‡้‡,ไผšๅฝฑๅ“ๅผ€ๅฏๅ’Œๅ…ณ้—ญ,ๆ—ถ้—ด้•ฟไบ†้—จไผšไธ‹ๅž‚.
    ๅˆถไฝœ่ฟ™ๆ ทๅฐบๅฏธ็š„้“้—จ้€‰็”จ3MMๅฃๅŽš็š„ๆ–นๅž‹้’ขๆ่ถณๅคŸไบ†.

  14. A quick equipment question as I am looking at getting into welding. Why did you opt for an abrasive chop saw instead of a carbide tooth chop saw (or even a mounted band saw). I am researching options. Great video as always!

  15. Have you tried the little plastic trigger that Rustoleum sells? It slips over your paint can and lets you just trigger spray. It's about $3 and it's a little miracle. ๐Ÿ™‚

  16. Your research and planning shows on every project! You explain clearly every part and what they are officially named, rather than I sparked the whichy-ma-thing to the doodle-whatsit! The fact that you ask people questions shows you are not arrogant or full of yourself? I am sure Cody and your parents, but most of all the dogs are extremely proud of you??? Congrats, beautiful job!!! Cheers, Sean

  17. It would have been a bit easier if the gate was first installed before painting. Nevertheless, it'll stop a raging bull dead in its path.

  18. Try to cut your gate in half, more better and its not too heavy from yor load post. Well its your gate and your design


  20. I put a similar entrance gate on our property , itโ€™s 15ft span with 4×4 8ft posts when I originally hung the gate the hinge post flexed when it opened lucky I hadnโ€™t installed the latch post at this point so I dung another 4ft hole as before for the other post but this time bolted a 6×6 10ft pressure treated post to the metal post and installed it in the hole then simply flipped the gate around to hinge it on the reinforced post then just bolted another 6×6 timber post to the original hinge post ( just the grade level )which is now the latch post just to mirror the new hinge post
    After the gate was hung I fitted a lift master electric gate arm/opener. Oh also used the same paint on the gate as have been impressed with the finish. The gate has been on for over 2yrs now and works great ๐Ÿ‘

  21. so ya wanna know what i think of your gate… well…. i absolutely love it.. I'm actually on here looking at videos on how to build gates… i need an 18 foot gate but i might go with 2 9 foot gates.. if i go 18 i am going aluminum… only thing i saw on your gate that i would change is i would also cap off the bottom of the post to keep wasp out.. other than that and even thinking of that you gate is still perfect..

  22. You said you were setting the sides and bottom flat to each other. This may or may not be of interest , but there's a word for that — coplanar. It's a good word to make people run to their dictionary or Google :-). You have a wonderful skill for presentation! That makes for great videos!

  23. The craftsmanship is spot on, well done, 14gage is the thickest you should really go, using a 2×4 bottom rail also helps 1000%.

  24. Outstanding, one idea for the gate add your logo you would have to cut out a portion of the pickets since your logo is round. However, that would be easy enough, in addition, you could burn the logo into your shop gate but with what you have already might make the shop gate look too busy. you decide

  25. Great work.

    I made some burglar bars for some windows recently. It occurred to me when I spray painted them with aerosol cans that some finer graffiti outlining nozzles would waste less paint when doing grills. I think half of the aerosol's paint ended up on the piece of carton I sprayed them on top of.

  26. Absolutely a great job. I really have no talent to think of anything like what you just built. I do have to ask how well did that helmet work out for you. Did you have any problems with it fogging up at all?

  27. Anyone noticed that the bandsaw doesnโ€™t have a handlebar and no gloves while cutting @7:26 I think is a great idea and very good job but always be careful about your work itโ€™s just a comment

  28. Hello April! What stand do you use for video at 6:45 and 8:35 ? Can anyone write a brand or type? Similar help would be. Thanks

  29. Madam I salute you! ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง that was a fantastic job you done there, loved every bit of it , thank you , you could make metal weapons for the Avengers! Iโ€™m sure Thor needs a new hammer โค๏ธ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘Œ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง

  30. great looking gate, just a fyi, never assume your slab is perfectly flat when you were putting spacers underneath to weld your pickets.ย  Slabs typically have low and high spots.

  31. Will a 10ft wide door sag if u put it on the post without bracing the post??? Like will it make the post lean towards the door because of the weight of it?

  32. Hi april I like the gate nice job and by the way I like the shirt you're wearing thank you for sharing your video.bye april God bless you and your family.๐Ÿ‡ฒ๐Ÿ‡ฝ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ

  33. Nice!…noticed the hinges are both in the same direction (load bearing) which means anyone can come by and lift the gate out of its hinges and get in. Add a third hinge flipped to prevent from removing.

  34. You are so talented. Wow great work.
    Please wear a mask when painting. Protect your lungs.
    God bless you always.

  35. Really good.

    Hope you've given it a proper coat with something to protect it as that aerosol business won't last.

  36. WOW! You are awesome! That was a huge project. It turned out ao nice and clean looking. Great work. I just subscribed and am anxious to check out your other projects.

  37. What you do is incredible!. But do please wear a mask when you're spray painting…that stuff doesn't come back out of your lungs!

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