DIY Jewelry with Iron Orchid Designs Decor Moulds!

Hello! It’s Heather from Thicketworks and
I’d like to share a recently created process with you. I think you’re going to
like this one. To start this fun process we begin by using Amazing Casting Resin. This is a two-part resin mixture –
– equal parts A and B…and once those are
thoroughly incorporated and turned clear, you have maybe three minutes to get all of that material into your mold! For this reason I like to work in small batches.
You can see by the tick marks on the side of this container that I’m not
mixing up very much at a time. The reason that I prefer this particular brand of
two-part resin is because although it does begin to set up quickly and
therefore forces us to work quickly, it also cures very quickly and it has a
wonderful stage at the end of its soft cure where we can actually shape the
components if we choose to, and they will cure in the shape that we give them.
That is an excellent quality…and it’s one that I really, really liked for this
kind of work. It’s also helpful to use a squeeze bottle with a dispenser tip in
the cap. That makes it easy to get into all of the little nooks and crannies…and
a note about clean up – if you leave your stir stick inside of the bottle, and
in contact with the remaining resin while it cures – you’ll be able to grasp
that stick and pull the whole mess right out of the bottle. But you do have to
babysit it! Make sure you pull it out before it fully hardens. Additionally, you
can remove everything from the cap the exact same way. Just make sure you take the cap off of the bottle, put something like a stir stick in contact with the resin
that’s lodged in the cap, and while it’s still in its soft cure phase you can
pull that resin right out and use the bottle over and over. Jjust remember to
work quickly once your resin has been thoroughly mixed, and get that into the
molds. If you find any air bubbles have been trapped in the resin during this
process, you can quickly apply a heat source like a lighter right above where
the bubble is and it will expand the air inside that bubble and it should pop for
you as long as you catch it quickly. Here’s just a quick time-lapse of the
resin curing – you can see when it gets to this solid white stage that it is at the
soft cure point. Here, I’m cracking it away from edges of the mold. That’ll make it easier to de-mold the entire piece and you can just pull it out – I know it
feels weird, but you can! Even though there’s some resistance. Once you’ve removed the flexible casting from the mold, you can then attach it to an item
that has the shape that you want your casting to assume. Tape it firmly in place
and allow it to cure. Here’s another example of one of the border molds
producing a casting that we can pull out while it’s still flexible. Once the
castings have fully cured, I like to use this stuff: RustOleum 2X Ultra Cover Flat Black Primer on all of my pieces before adding more elaborate finishing
processes. This stuff is great! Make sure to use it outside or with
adequate ventilation. Once the primer has thoroughly dried (and that won’t take
long) maybe 10-15 minutes, it’s time to begin the application of the first layer
of rust paste. Now, this is a DIY Rust Paste formula that I created a few weeks
ago, and I’m just loving this stuff because I go through a lot of it and the
small commercially available containers are just not adequate for those volume
that I go through. A heat tool will quickly dry that very first layer. Once
the first layer of Rust Paste dries, now it’s time to come back in with their
rich reddish orange tint – and you just want to be sort of random in your
application here. This orange is what is going to really sell this as an
antiquarian finish by the time we are complete. You can see the magic beginning to take place here.. and you can also see this is MESSY! Make sure to dry thoroughly with your heat tool. Inka Gold in Hematite will
give us just the right amount of metallic shine. For this application I
like to use a dampened scruffy brush and just barely add touches of the Hematite
color to the upper portions of this richly textured finish. Many of the Iron Orchid Designs Decor Moulds are created in a way that makes it possible
to adhere them back-to-back and get a perfect match, which is super cool, but in
order to do that I need to remove some of the irregularities that appeared on
the upper surface of my castings. So I’m just using a sanding sponge and a file to get
rid of that bumpiness and make it possible to glue these glorious pieces
back-to-back and get a truly three-dimensional object that can dangle
and be admired from all angles. Even if the castings don’t fit perfectly
back-to-back because of some residual bumpiness, that’s alright, you can go
ahead and adhere them and we can take care of any remaining gaps later on in
the process. Now, it takes quite a few castings (as you
can imagine) to create a whole host of these components – so stock up and
remember that you need two of everything that you want to be fully
three-dimensional. FabriTac is my favorite adhesive for this type of
application. It does the job really well even though it’s goopy and stinky – I love
this stuff! Once you’ve allowed the adhesive to
fully cure, you’re going to have something to hold in your hand that
feels amazing! These two sided pieces are really substantial and they feel and
look like something that’s very precious. I’m just hunting through my supplies to
find a few jewels and gems that will be appropriate…and I am loving the way that
these dark brown bronzy flat-backed pearls are interacting with our rusty and corroded finish – I think that is perfect. To glue these items in place, once again
I’m turning to FabriTac – this stuff is really, really tough, and it
holds up beautifully over time. Yep…I am just loving this effect! So
pretty… I’ve left a number of pieces without
gluing them back-to-back and I’ll show you a cool finishing technique for these
later on, but I’m also adding some of these flat-backed pearls to this, and
that just looks so gorgeous! Yep…To fill the gap around that gem, I’m just putting
a small bead of Glossy Accents and we are going to fill that with gorgeous
microbeads, in a complementary bronzish color. For those flat-backed pieces I
like to use velvet as a finish and for this I’m using Quick Dry Tacky Glue and
just applying it to the back of the piece and gluing it down to the wrong
side of the velvet. Once the adhesive has cured that’s holding the velvet to the
back of the flat-backed pieces, I like to use an emery board, and sometimes small scale files to remove the excess velvet from around the contours of the
piece. You’ll notice that as I do this some of the rusty finish is being
removed from the edges of the piece, but that’s easily corrected as one of
the final finishing steps. Once you’ve filed away the majority of
the material, you can use an open flame to melt away the remaining fibers.
Now, they’ll clump up along the edge which is why you see me grabbing a metal file here – it really helps to get those little clumps of burned materials away –
and this is gonna result in a really cool smooth-edged velvet backing that
perfectly mimics the silhouette of the piece. You’ll want to repeat this
somewhat tedious process for each of the pieces that will be incorporated into your jewelry that have flat backs. This will make them pleasant to the
touch and beautiful to look at. There’s no reason that you couldn’t use a
different kind of material -say, leather, as the backing for these pieces. Just keep
in mind that it will be a bit of a challenge to make that item fit the
contours of your piece exactly. That’s why I chose velvet for this process – I
knew that it would be perfectly suited to creating that nice smooth contoured
edge. Once you’ve completed this process for all of your flat-backed components, I
defy you to resist stroking that velvet! iI is just so luscious and such a perfect
complement to the antique finish on the faces. These pieces are now ready to be
sealed, and for that job I like to use Krylon Matte Finish Spray Sealer. It’s
economical, it really does the job and it doesn’t alter the finish appreciably…so you get all that rusty antique charm without too much residual
shininess. It’s true: I’m officially smitten with this finish –
and I love the fact that you can easily drill holes through the completed
pieces, making it super easy to put together stunning jewelry pieces…
I certainly hope you’ll give these methods a try. I think that you’ll be
pleasantly surprised at the resulting quality of the components that you
create. And the sky’s the limit – once you have been using your arsenal you’ll be
able to create all kinds of stunning statement pieces like this pendant…
and this pendant. And I want you to have that much fun, too! It’s hard to believe that all this antique goodness comes from modern
plastics and DIY Rust Pastes, but there you have it! I’ve detailed the process for
making these gorgeous cuffs in a separate video and there will be
a link to that below…but this is just one of the options available with the
IOD Vintage Decor Moulds. Thank you so much for joining me for this process…
it’s been an absolute joy to create and share with you, and I hope that you find
that you’re inspired to create something similar. For those of you who are
interested in the steps that are not included in this video, they ARE included
in a step-by-step, blow-by-blow tutorial available on the Thicketworks website. I
hope I’ll see you there! Thank you so much…Bye

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