How to Make a Roman Shade


Eric: This video’s brought to you by Sailrite.
In this video, we’re going to show you from beginning to end how to build a standard Roman
Shade. These Roman Shades are four panels that cover the windows in this home. We’re
going to show you how to measure, how to sew them up, how to attach rings, how to attach
the hardware, and then finally how to install them in your window. Let’s get started and
show you how it’s done. Here’s Matt Grant from Sailrite to show us how to take measurements
for your particular Roman Shades. We’re going to measure for the Roman Shades
that we’re going to install in these four windows. Before we start those measurements,
I want to just talk about the fact that you can do these as an inside or an outside mount.
We’re going to do an inside mount because we have enough depth in the window framing
here. We’ve got just right at about 3” and a little bit more after the final trim.
We need about 2” of depth to fully conceal the headboard of our Roman Shade so we’ll
be in great shape here. So because we’re going to go inside mount, we really only need
to get the height, or the length, of the Roman Shade and then we need to get the finished
width of each shade. I’m going to measure here and I am getting 51 3/8”. So we’ll
confirm that measurement somewhere in the center here and I’ll do it here, and 51
3/8” again. We’ll confirm it over here at the edge, maybe both edges just to make
sure everything’s square. Here I’m noticing I’ve got some handle hardware so I’m going
to write down 51” for my height. I don’t want the bottom weighted bar in my Roman Shades
crashing down on the window sill so I’d like to be just a little short and that certainly
covers all of the exposed window glass. Once we have the height, we’re going to
get the width of each of the Roman Shades. I’m not going to take any reduction out
for gaps between shades at this point. I just want to figure out what the maximum finished
width of each shade can be. If I measure from the inside trim to the center of our molding
here, I’m at 29”. So this first window I’m going to call 29”. Then I’m going
to find the center of the trim and measure over and I’m at 30” here, and we’re
30” here, and we’re 29” over here. So we basically got two slightly narrower windows
on the sides and then two slightly wider ones in the center. I like to see the width of
the finished Roman Shade panels be at least ¼” short on each side. In some cases a
½” less on each side, especially for larger window assemblies. So in this case we’re
going to cut this one down by ¼” on each side so we’ll be at 28 ½”, and instead
of our 30” here we’re going to be at 29 ½”, and then we’ll do likewise for these
two. Eric: The first step in creating your Roman
Shade is to cut the fabric to size. We’re going to take those measurements we just made
and calculate what size fabric to cut. We’re going to use a decorative fabric and a lining
fabric on the backside. Using the measurements we just made, we need to add these to those
measurements to determine the appropriate size fabric to cut. We’ve made those calculations
and are now marking the fabric with a pencil, and we’ll cut it out with scissors. When
using a pattern with a repeat, you need to take into consideration where the repeat will
fall for your Roman Shades, especially if you have multiple shades. Here’s a look
ahead at the four Roman Shades that we’re making. As you can see by the yellow boxes,
we’ve considered where the repeat will fall. Notice that we staggered it so that it looks
pleasing to the eye and also centered it. Again, if your fabric has a repeat, it’s
completely up to the end user where they want the repeat to fall.
Since we’re building four Roman Shades, we’re going to need four panels of the decorative
fabric and four panels of the lining fabric. We’re using that first fabric- the good
fabric that we cut to size- and we’re placing it on top of the next run of fabric so we
can determine the length of that as well, and also consider the pattern repeat (if that
is important to you). Now we’ll concentrate on the width of the face fabric. We’re going
to place that pattern repeat- the large pattern- in the center. So we’ll take the calculations
we made earlier to determine the appropriate width to cut, and we’ll strike lines on
the fabric and cut it out with scissors. We cut our fabric from both sides so that our
pattern- our large image in the center- was centered between the width. Now we have our
one face fabric. Now we need to concentrate on cutting out the lining fabric. At the Sailrite
website, you’ll find multiple choices for drapery and lining material, including blackout
material. So be sure to visit the Sailrite website to pick yours today.
We’ve marked the drapery lining material to the correct size for our window and are
cutting it out with scissors. Now both the lining and the decorative fabric we did earlier
is cut to the appropriate size. Now all we need to do is sew those pieces together. We’ll
lay the lining on top of the decorative fabric so the outside surfaces are facing each other.
You’ll notice that our decorative fabric is actually too long. That’s because we
calculated for the repeat in that. If you cut both your decorative fabric and lining
fabric out to the correct length, yours will be even.
Notice that the width of our decorative fabric is much wider than the lining fabric and that
is intentional. The length is not. Your length may be exactly the same as your lining fabric.
Starting from the bottom here, our pattern repeat will be perfect for our application.
We’ll pin along the length of the fabric where the lining is lined up with the decorative
fabric on the underside. We’ll use pins about every 6”-12” to be sure that our
fabrics stay in the appropriate position as we take them to the sewing machine and sew.
We’ll be using the Deluxe Magnetic Guide and ensure that we get a ½” stitch. It’s
very important that you stitch a ½” away from the raw edge of the fabric. The decorative
fabric you see at the top when we first started this stitch is excess, mainly used to match
up the pattern repeat. Yours may not have that. Sew all the way down its length and
remove the pins as you approach them with the sewing machine. We’re using the Sailrite
111 Sewing Machine. This is a compound walking foot sewing machine, and this sewing machine
has the MC-SCR Power System. Phenomenal sewing machine! When you get to the end, as you did
at the beginning, reverse to lock your stitch in place.
Now that the lining has been sewn to our decorative fabric, we’ll turn the panel around and
line up the lining to the opposite edge of the decorative fabric. So now our lining will
be pulled over so the decorative fabric actually folds at the other end. Match it up so the
edges are exactly flush and then sew a ½” down that length as well. You can sew these
Roman Shades with a V-30 thread or home sewing machine thread. These are light fabrics and
Sailrite stocks a plethora of great fabrics for Roman Shades. Brands like: Braemore, Brisa,
Dena Home, Geobella, P/K Lifestyles, P/Kaufmann, Softline, Sunbrella, Tommy Bahama, and Waverly.
Check them out at the Sailrite website and pick your favorite today.
As discussed earlier, we’re going to trim off this excess fabric that is at the top,
which was used to match up our pattern repeat. Angela’s now going to ensure that the fabric
is laying nice and flat and that the lining fabric is centered on the backside of our
fabric. The fabric is still turned wrong side out. She’s going to pin the bottom portion
here. This is the bottom of our Roman Shade because we’re going to sew that shut. She’s
going to make sure that the sides are exactly the same so she’s measuring the seam here
to be sure that it is exactly the same as the other side. Then she’ll take it to the
sewing machine and sew a ½” from the raw edge of the fabric- reversing at the beginning-
sewing all the way along its length to the other side. Sewing shut this bottom edge,
it would now be called a pillow case cover- one open end. Alright, when we get all the
way to the end, we are now ready for the next step, and that is the placement of the dowels.
That’s coming up in the next chapter. Angela’s now working from the top of the
Roman Shade, and she’s going to ensure that the lining is positioned, or centered, along
the backside of the fabric. To do that, she’ll measure the edges and be sure they’re equal
from left side to right side, and then pin them in position along the top edge. So she’s
going to take her ruler and measure this side as well and pin it in place. As she pins the
sides, she is not pinning through the lining fabric. She’s only pinning through the decorative
fabric. Angela is not going to place anymore pins in it right now until she ensures that
it is centered. So she’s going to take measurements at several locations and she’ll place her
pins to secure it in place as she positions each one of the dowels at its appropriate
position. So she’s just making sure the fold is right where it should be. Once you’re
happy with where the seam lies, you could take it to an iron and iron it so it has a
nice crease. But we’re not going to do that. We’re going to talk about the positioning
of the dowels next. At the time when we were creating this video,
Sailrite was in the process of creating a fabric calculator for Roman Shades. You may
want to check that out at the Sailrite website. In lieu of that calculator, you can use the
calculations here for the placement of each one of your dowels on your Roman Shade. Let’s
calculate the measurements for our particular Roman Shade. You can see here, segments required
are 7. The height of the main segments is 6.85” and the height of the lowest segment
is 8.35”. Those measurements will be the placement for the dowels. So these dash lines
represent the dowels. However, for the lowest segment, we need to add 3” because we will
be creating a hem there in a later step. Next we’ll measure up from the lower edge
of our shade at the stitch line. That’s the stitch line that she just pointed to.
We need to measure up our measurement for the lowest segment. Ours is 8.35”, but we
need to add 3” to whatever your lowest segment measurement is for a hem that will created
later on. That leaves our measurement at 11.35” for the lowest segment. Angela has marked
that location with a pin. Now she measures up for the main segments. Ours is 6.85”
so she measures up to that location from that lower segment that we just marked on the fabric.
Places a pin there as well. She’ll continue to measure up from each one of those pin locations
until she’s done with the main segments. Angela has marked each one of the segment
positions with a push pin. You can also use a pencil. Now she’ll fold the material in
half along its length to determine where the location should be placed on the opposite
side of the fabric. This is an easy way to do it so you don’t have to measure all over
again for the opposite side. Then she sticks the pushpins in that side as well. Or you
can mark it with a pencil. Now we can unfold the shade and we can place wood dowels on
top to determine how long they should be cut. We’re using a 3/16” wood dowel, though
plastic dowels can be used as well. We want them about a ½” shorter than the width
of the shade. Then we’ll cut them all to size. Again we’re using 3/16” wood dowels.
We’ll be using Tear Mender that’s available from Sailrite to glue these dowels to the
decorative fabric. Notice the decorative fabric backside, or inside, is facing up. Gem-Tac
may also be used. It’s typically used for gluing gem stones to fabric. You do not need
to glue all the way across. Just a few dabs every 4”-5”. Notice how Angela has placed
the dowel at her pushpin location and then dropped a few drips of the glue at the location
on the backside of the good fabric and holds it in place. It does take a while for this
to dry so be careful. Then she comes to the next location. The batten is about a ¼”
underneath the pushpins, places a few drops there as well, and then rolls the wood dowel
over the center of the drops. Our shades have 7 segments, which equal 6
wood dowels. They’ve all been glued in place. Now Angela places a few yardsticks on top
to help hold the dowels down onto the glue while it dries. We’ve also placed a few
of these shades in front of a fan to accelerate the glue dry time.
Next we’ll concentrate on creating a hem at the bottom edge of the shade. First remove
all of the pushpins, if you used those to position the dowels, and we’ll need to turn
the pillow case right side out. So even though there are dowels that are glued to the fabric,
it is still not a very difficult process. It easily turns right side out. We’ll speed
up the video here showing the process, but we don’t want to bore you with the process
either (laughs). The bottom edge of our shade has already been sewn together. So we need
to make sure that the corners are pushed out all the way. Once we’re happy the fabric
is laying nice and flat, we’ll take it over to an ironing board and use an iron set on
the appropriate setting for the fabric of your choice, and we’re going to create creases
at the bottom edge and the sides of our shade. Using an iron to create the creases will give
a beautiful appearance to your Roman Shade. At the bottom edge of our shade, we’re going
to fold the fabric up to approximately 3”. However, we’re going to measure where that
fold should be located by using the lowest segment measurement. For us, it was 8 3/8”
from the lowest dowel. So we’re ensuring that the lowest segment is our lowest segment
measurement. Then we’ll pin the fabric at that location using the pushpins. Once it’s
pinned in the appropriate position, we’ll take it over to the ironing board and iron
the crease along the bottom edge. Now we’re going to use the sewing machine
and place a straight stitch along the inner portion of that fold pulling the pins as we
come upon them. We’ll keep this stitch very close to the raw edge of that fabric, which
is no longer really raw because it is a finished edge. So all the way to the other side, and
as normal, do some reverse stitching at the beginning and do some reverse stitching at
the end. This hem that we’ve just created will also serve as a sleeve for a heavier
dowel rod. So we’ll sew from the bottom edge up approximately 1”, reversing there,
and that will allow us to have an opening at the top that will be used to push the rod
into the sleeve. We want to do that same procedure on the opposite side. We’ve purchased a
metal rod at a hardware store, cut it to size, and we’ll push it into that sleeve that
we created. The sewing at the ends will keep the rod from coming out.
Now that the hem has been created at the bottom, we can measure up and cut our Roman Shade
to the appropriate length. For us, our length was 51”. So we’ll measure from that bottom
edge up 51” and mark the fabric with a pencil. We’ll do that on both sides and then strike
a straight line across the fabric. Do not cut on this line. We’ll be cutting above
the line. This is where we want the actual finished edge to lay. Once the line is struck,
we’ll cut approximately 1” up from the line. We are not cutting on the line. We are
cutting 1” up from the line, and we’re removing the excess fabric. Now we’re going
to install a looped Velcro and fold the lining and the decorative fabric in to give it a
finished appearance. We’re going to pin all that in place. Notice here Angela’s
folding the lining fabric in and she’ll fold the decorative fabric in along the line
that she struck along the lining so that that line is our top edge. Take your time and then
pin the fabric in place. Sailrite strongly recommends using Velcro
along the top edge of your Roman Shade. Using Velcro, you can make adjustments to how the
Roman Shade actually sits in the window. We’ll be attaching a hooked Velcro to the headrail
in a future step. For now, attach the loop Velcro to the top of the Roman Shade, as shown
here. Take your time and be sure that you fold the fabric along the line that you struck
down so that your Roman Shade is the appropriate length when complete. We’ll then take it
over to the sewing machine and sew the Velcro down the two long legs, reversing at the beginning
to lock our stitch. When we come upon each one of the pushpins, we’ll remove the pins
ensuring the fabric is still nice and flat, and sew all the way down the other side. We’ll
do that same procedure to the other side of the Velcro.
We’ll next be installing rings for lift lines. Rings should be installed starting
at the lowest dowel and then skipping every other dowel. Rings are typically spaced about
15” apart. Our shade will require 3 lift lines. Angela’s marking the position at
the center of our shade every other dowel starting at the bottom. Now she’ll take
some thread and feed it through a needle eye, and she will prepare to hand sew the rings
in place at each location. Angela’s measured a length of thread that is almost the length
of the entire shade curtain. She ties a knot at the end- a double knot- and cuts off the
excess thread. We’re going to run this needle all the way down the length of the curtain.
We’ll start here at the lowest dowel, push the needle through the fabric including the
decorative fabric on the underside, around the dowel, and up through the fabric. Then
she’ll run the thread through the metal ring (that’s available from Sailrite), and
back into the fabric through the ring, tie a few knots. You want to make sure that this
ring is secured in position. You do not want your rings falling off. Because we’ve chosen
to use metal rings from Sailrite, we don’t have to worry about those plastic rings that
often are affected by the UV, become hard/brittle, and then eventually break. So we highly recommend
ordering your sew on rings for Roman Shades from Sailrite. Either available in a brass
or nickel finish. Once Angela is satisfied that the ring will not fall off, which she’s
done a good job here, she’s sewn it to death, she will pass her needle in between the two
fabrics and come out of the next dowel so she can get some breath, and then pass it
down to the next dowel. So this way she doesn’t have to cut her thread and create knots again.
This is a preference, not necessarily required. So notice that she’ll come out here at that
dowel that we want to skip- in other words, we do not want to install rings at this dowel-
and then she’ll go back into the fabric and pass the needle between the two fabrics
(the lining and the decorative fabric), coming to the next dowel and then inserting the ring
at that location as well, just as we did previously. So here she is, she skipped that one dowel
and has come to the next dowel which does require a ring. You notice that we are installing
the rings along the seam where the decorative fabric was sewn to the lining fabric. Not
a bad idea. So she goes into the fabric, comes around the dowel, out through the fabric,
and she’ll secure a ring just as she did previously here as well. We will not show
all of this. Now that you know how to install the rings at each of the appropriate locations,
you can do that for your shade. We also do want to show what it looks like from the surface,
or the decorative fabric side. We’re using a thread that is almost the same color, but
as you can see here, it’s barely noticeable. So you don’t have to worry too much. We
try to match the color if possible. Now we need to concentrate on making a headrail.
We’re going to use some of the excess lining material. Fold it in half so that we have
two layers, and we’re going to fold into the board. We’re using a 2” x 2” board,
which actually measures 1 ½” x 1 ½” that we picked up at a hardware store and
we cut it to size. I like to cut the length of the headrail to the exact width of the
finished shade. However, some people cut it ¼” smaller. Now we’ll wrap that fabric
around the board, as shown here in the video, and staple it in place along the top edge.
For our Roman Shade, we’ll be installing the headrail along the inner frame of the
window. So the edge that we’re stapling will not be visible. It will actually be screwed
up against the ceiling at that location. We’re using a very nice Duo-Fast Electric Stapler,
available from Sailrite. However, a simple Arrow Stapler that you may already have will
work just as well. When we come to the end, we’ll cut off the excess fabric and we’ll
wrap it as we do a Christmas present. You may want to use the end of a screwdriver to
perfect how the tucks of the fabric look. Once you’re happy, you’ll staple the top
side- the side that will be up against the ceiling. Now that our lining fabric has been
secured all around the board, we want to turn the board so that the Velcro will be facing
out. We’ll secure it in place with the stapler. You can use this great Duo-Fast Stapler, but
it is rather expensive. You can also just use an Arrow Stapler that you may already
have in your possession. Be sure to attach the hook side of the Velcro here since the
loop has been attached to the curtain. Now attach the curtain to the Velcro, make sure
it’s centered and looks nice, roll the board around so that you’ll be working from the
underside of the board, and that’s where we’ll be attaching our hardware for the
lift lines. With a pencil, Angela is marking the center location above the ring and the
side locations above the rings. Yours may have more or fewer. Then you can remove the
actual curtain. Now we’ll attach screw eyes that we purchased from a hardware store at
all three of those locations. For our Roman Shade, we’ve chosen to use
a cord lock that we purchased from Sailrite. Let’s take a look at this cord lock. On
this end there’s a small opening. Then on the other, there’s a larger opening. The
larger opening would go along the length of the headrail that has the majority of the
cords. On the underside, you have a two wire system for our cord lock. We’re going to
use some leechline here and cut it with a hotknife so we have a sealed edge and we’re
going to run it through the large opening of the cord lock and down through the center
of the actual lock system. Sailrite recommends installing the line through the cord lock
prior to installing the lock to the actual headrail. At the bottom opening of the cord
lock, there are wires to separate each one of the cords. This cord lock will accommodate
up to 6 cords. We need only 3 cords for the Roman Shade that this will be installed to.
We’ll install the second line through the large opening side and down through the middle.
In some situations, you may find it a little bit difficult to feed the cord through the
middle. In those situations, you can use tweezers on the bottom side to help guide the line.
Then our last line will be run through the small side of the cord lock and down through
the center just as the other ones were done previously.
The calculations for the length of cord to order will actually give you much more line
than you need. In this situation, we’re not using tweezers, but a screwdriver to help
exit the cord through the bottom of the cord lock. Here we go. The larger hole has the
majority of the cords while the smaller hole on the one side only has one cord. We can
install this cord lock on our headrail either on the left side or the right side. We’re
installing it on our Roman Shade headrail along the left side. We want that lock system
to be screwed as close to that eye along the left side as possible. Just use screws that
you can pick up at a hardware store and screw it in position. Now we’ll feed the cords
that are coming out of the large hole of the cord lock through our eyes, as shown here
in the video. On ours, we have three so this cord will run through the last screw eye.
Then all the way to the left, in this situation it’s the right, but it will be installed
on the left when we have our curtain, we feed it through the last eye. That’s all there
is to installing the cord lock and the cords into the headrail system.
Now we’ll fasten the fabric onto the headrail system via the Velcro. As you can see, the
cord lock is on the right side; though, when you’re looking at the actual Roman Shade,
the cord lock will be on the left side, as the outside surface is facing the table. Now
we’ll run the cord through each one of the rings, and we will not tie it to any of the
rings except for the last. We’ll follow that same procedure for each one of the rings
with each one of the cord locks. Then to keep the cords from unraveling, we’ll use a hotknife
to seal the ends. Next we’re going to use the plastic lift
cord condenser that you can purchase from Sailrite. With the curtain fully open and
the cords being fairly taut, cut all of the cords at once so there’s about 6” of cord
hanging below the cord lock. This condenser condenses the multiple curtain lift cords
into one cord. For our curtain, we’re using fairly large line here so it’s a little
bit difficult to squeeze it through the top of the condenser. So we’re pushing all 3
cords into the condenser and then being sure that they are all pulled evenly so that it’ll
pull up the Roman Shade at the same rate, and we’ll tie a knot in the end of them.
They will be contained inside the bell shape of the condenser. The condenser should be
approximately 2”-3” underneath the cord lock. If it’s not, reposition the knot.
Now push the condenser over the knot and trim the cords at the bottom of the condenser.
Now the knot is hidden. Now we’ll insert a length of cord through the condenser bottom,
tie a knot in that- here we’re going to tie a double knot to be sure that it won’t
come through- and then we’ll screw that onto the larger condenser top. Now we have
3 cords that transition into a single cord. If we were using smaller cord line, we would
use this O-ring to keep the knot from pulling out of any one of the condenser ends. Now
we’ll install a tassel that we’ve picked for our shade, and we’ll tie a knot in the
end of the cord, fastening it somewhere close to the middle of the shade.
And that’s all there is to building a Roman Shade. Now all we need to do is install the
headrail, or head rod. We’re back at the home now and we’ll drill a hole directly
through the head rod board, all the way through the fabric, all the way to the other side.
We’re going to be installing it in a wood molding so there’s no reason to use anchors
for our application. We’ll pull the curtain Velcro from the actual board and lower the
curtain so that we have more room to insert our screws and work with the hardware up in
the window. We’re going to insert some wood screws through the board so they just start
to protrude through the underside of the board, which will be fastened to the ceiling. We’ve
already installed 3 of our Roman Shade curtains. This is the last. With the curtain down, as
you see here in the video, we can easily install the board, or headrail, into our window without
the fabric getting in the way. Another advantage of using the Velcro. Be sure the board is
positioned right where you want it and then screw it into place. Then simply reattach
the Velcro to the headrail. If necessary, position until everything is nice and straight
and positioned perfectly. That’s all it takes to build a Roman Shade.
You’ll find hundreds, if not thousands, of fabrics at the Sailrite website that are
perfect for Roman Shades, including the lining fabric and even blackout fabrics. Be sure
to visit the Sailrite website today. Coming up next is a detailed material list of all
the supplies and tools that are required to build your very own Roman Shade. To pick your
decorative fabric and to pick your drapery lining fabric, be sure to visit the Sailrite
website. Many of these items can be purchased at Sailrite. Some will have to be purchased
at a hardware store or craft store. Here are the tools that are required or possibly helpful
to help you build your very own Roman Shades. For more free videos like this, be sure to
check out the Sailrite website or subscribe to the Sailrite YouTube channel today. It’s
your loyal patronage to Sailrite that makes these free videos possible. Thanks for your
support.

100 Replies to “How to Make a Roman Shade”

  1. It looks a bit hard but a challenge I want to take on. Great video, very detailed and the guys voice was positive and upbeat/friendly throughout. I want that sewing machine lol!

  2. Hi I just made my fabric part of the shade. It all turned out great. Because it was my first time i made sure to follow really carefully and i made no mistakes. So far its amazing my question is for my next roman shade that i would want to do one panel but a wider one. Can you tell me where i can find a longer dowel that would work. As if now i have seen all the dowels the same size. So i figured you cant make one big one. If there is an option or advice for a wider roman shade will be greatly appreciated. =)

  3. I love these! This video gets me thinking I can do this if I take my time! Thank you. The other vids are over complicated!!!!! I live in a cold climate and these shades make a huge difference when it comes to keeping cold/heat out as long as you use heavy material found in the home dec section at Micheal's. They are not as hard as they seem. Key is taking your time. For me anyway. I have one done and eight more to go! =)!

  4. I love the way Roman shades look at a window…but, after watching this demonstration…I think I shall just pay to have some made…the cord pulley system convinced me of that…but, this is a great video…thank you..

  5. Hi Matt! Thank you for you DIY. its new level for me. Thank from Russia! I hope. when i will accumulate enough money. I will be you customer!
    best regards

  6. I was real impressed with the detail of this video. I am not sure I'd ever make these myself (although I love the look) but as someone who loves to make things, this was a great video!! I'm still in the process of building my tiny house so was looking for ideas!! Good job!

  7. Sailrite; chances are you'll not respond, but how would you mount externally? That to me, makes no sense. oic, from frame. nm

  8. This will only be helpful if you dont wish to change your blinds.but if you're like me who wants a change every other year.i suggest to make inserts for the dowels instead of glueing them to the fabric.in that way you can reuse the dowels for a new set of blinds

  9. OMG.   Been sewing for 50+ yrs but never to old to learn something new.  This is the second video that I watched from here.  Excellent & easy to follow. .  Look out house, I'm coming through.  Thanks

  10. Olá tudo bem? Amo seus vídeos… Tenho uma dessas na minha janela, e agora está com defeito. Quando fecho só um lado desce pode ensinar com concerto? Obrigado.

  11. How I wish I had seen this video before I made my first set of Roman shades. The hardware I purchased have since broken and they were not easy to make. Thank you very much for this excellent video and wonderful instructions. We shall be purchasing all future window treatment hardware and fabrics from your company.

  12. I just finished making 3 of these Roman Shades for our new kitchen, along with 3-pc valances (not from your website). I thought the instructions were spot on and loved the way the narrator spoke slowly for my even slower brain! haha! One change I did make after the first shade was instead of putting the Tear Mender on in spots along the dowels, I used a piece of wall molding that had grooves in it in which I placed the wood dowel to keep it in place and ran the Tear Mender in a line along the dowel. This worked out much better because when the sun comes thru the window on the first shade, I can see little dots thru it. Wish I could post a picture. Thank you SailRite!

  13. This is a superb video! It offers extremely clear and easy-to-follow instruction, is well-paced, and has great videography. Thanks so much for a job very well done!

  14. Hi i nerd tk make a blind the existing blind is larger than window big still light com coming through(from sides)!
    Do you think is best to install the blind inside the window?
    Thank you

  15. Very very beawtyfull!!!!! I´m not english but anderstund the video. Pliiiisss, subtítulos in español!!!!

  16. Wow! What a great video – clear and thorough and pleasant to listen to. Many thanks. I can't wait to get started on these shades.

  17. Girllll, you deserve a raise! Awesome work, makes senses. Just don’t have the patience for all those measurements. You deserve a really good salary.

  18. Add two layers of black fabric between the inside and outside layer to block light and install inside the window opening.

  19. This has got to be the best tutorial I have seen for making Roman shades – making it look easier than even all those easy to do hack tutorials!!!

  20. I just LOVE all the Sailrite videos. They are so well done. And they answer all the little questions that no one else seems to reveal. I especially love the clarity of the announcer’s voice.

  21. Thank you for this tutorial. I am wondering if there is a way to make these blinds in a way you can take the fabric off to wash it ?

  22. Good instructions. Such a shame that the shades weren't fabricated with fabric pattern matched. You can see in the overhead view of the layout that these could have been easily pattern matched.

  23. I like you..
    And visit Curtains kitchen:
    https://youtu.be/wk10T324YCk
    https://youtu.be/8afwxrJP0Es

    Curtains model: https://youtu.be/Omzd6JYmOCU

  24. Why not just paint the wood white instead of wrappig it with fabric? The fabric would get dusty and dirty after awhile. If it was wood you could just wipe or repaint it as necessary.

  25. oh man…. thought i understood this, will have to do it with paper as the fabric until i get how to do the segments….. when i used the calculator and makeed my fabric I had 5 inches extra in the main sections…. obviously I entered in something wrong…. lesson in patience i guess

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