Wolf Tooth Pattern for a high-end Viking Spear (A Spear Born of Fire: Ep. 5)

Welcome back for Part 5. In this epsiode, we will start making the
wolf tooth pattern you may have been waiting for. I already have a block of reasonably high
layer steel we will be using for the cutting edge. Before it can be used I need to forge it to
the right dimensions; it needs to be about 3/8 on inch thick; that’s 9mm and much wider. As before, I appreciate your help with promoting
these videos; you can do so by sharing a link on your social networks. Making high-quality videos takes a lot of
time and effort and getting more views increases my motivation. I want the bar to be at least 2 inches wide;
that’s about 5 cm. The spear core I have created in the last
few episodes will fit right into the center of
this bar. As before, I am using my trusty sword fuller
to help with widening the steel on the power hammer. As with all the work involved in creating
the spearhead, even simple steps take time and there is no sense in rushing them. Working on the fuller can bend the steel and
sometimes corrections on the anvil are useful to get everything back in shape. Before I can use this bar, it needs to be
of even width and even thickness. I am getting closer though and may just need
a couple more heats. As you may have noticed the episodes for Spear
Born of Fire are a little bit longer and I am showing you more of the actual work that
is happening. Many videos that go from start to finish in
just ten minutes remove a lot of the work that is happening. My videos are heavily edited as well but I
am trying to stay faithful to the process. I am finally happy with the bar. While it may be hard to see, this is what
will form the outer layer of the spearhead. The next step is to cut it open in the middle
for almost its entire length and start forging in the teeth. We could have done this hot with a chisel
as well but that would require extra work to square things back up. You will see why in just a few minutes. One of the nice things when working with steel
is that when hot it can be moved around. For example, when a part of it is in the way,
we can move it somewhere else. Before I continue, I need to clean up the
cut from the bandsaw with a fuller. Now comes the step that many of you may have
been waiting for. The creation of the wolf tooth pattern. I made a double chisel that I am slowly moving
down each arm of the spearhead. The double chisel gives me very even spacing
for the teeth but also has its own drawbacks. For example, when starting a new tooth, the
chisel needs to be well aligned and it is easy to double cut a tooth. As the chisel is hardened, it also needs to
be cooled down regularly. While I am not showing it on the video, I
conduct two passes over the arm to even out the teeth. As I cut a new tooth, the previous one tends
to move back a little bit. Alright, this is how it looks after we are
done with one side and now let’s quickly finish up the other side as well. This is the second pass I just said I would
not show on video. Well, here is it anyway and it helps with
making the teeth even. Here is a close up on the teeth and you can
also see some that I cut twice. Some of this will be cleaned up with files
and some will disappear when forge welding. One final adjustment is to cut out the last
tooth so that there is space for the wrought iron to be supported. What you see now is my method that allows
me to do all the operations by myself. For this spearhead, I fortunately had Tony’s
help so could have tried to do this differently. However, this is the way I found that works
for me. By welding the arms to a plate I know that
everything is well supported. The basic idea is to take wrought iron which
is very soft when hot and use the cold high-carbon steel as the form into which to fit the wrought
iron. Even when using a hydraulic press this is
still a little bit of a struggle and Tony is helping to hold one side of the wrought
iron strip with a hammer. I believe this technique would be possible
without a press by just hammering but would definitely require an assistant. Here is how it looks like after the wrought
iron has been formed. For the press to work the wrought iron bar
I use needs to be square. Here, I noticed that it was on the diamond
and needed to quickly square it back up. Once the wrought iron is hot, I have enough
time to press 2 to 3 times before the heat is lost and I need to go back to the forge. Alignment is important here and you may notice
that the bar is bending away at the end. I somewhat corrected for that and fortunately
there is enough material so that it should not become a problem. Before I can forge weld the wrought iron teeth
to the outer part of the spearhead, everything needs to be cleaned back up again so that
any scale that built up has been removed. A couple quick tack welds hold the wrought
iron in place but will not form inclusions in the finished product. Now, it’s back into the forge where I bring
everything up to welding heat. The power hammer makes this an easy exercise
and let’s me hit precisely where I need to. Without the power hammer assist, an assistant
would have to hold a set hammer. Having both arms out of each other’s way,
also means that I can forge weld both sides without needing to make any adjustments. That’s it. Our spearhead has a wolf tooth pattern now
and the mystery of how to create it has almost been explained. This concludes the episode and I hope you
stay with me on my journey and see the spear in use once it has been completed. As always, I hope you enjoyed what you saw. If you have not subscribed to my channel yet,
you can do it now. Also, don’t forget to share this video on
your social network to spread the joy of making this amazing spear. See you next time. As the moment I am trying to get access to
both inside surfaces of the edge steel. I will move them away into separate directions
so that I can work on both of them at the same time.

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